(2025) A blend of 60% Obaideh and 40% Merwah from high-altitude vines planted between 50-90 years ago. The wine was fermented in new French oak barrels for nine months and only released after six years. Musar are very firm that this wine should be served at around 15C, and not at fridge temperature. The nose is at first creamy and lemony, not too oxidised at all, hints of marzipan and hazelnut are lovely, then fennel and fresh mountain pine come through. Intense and dry on the palate, this is driven by apple core and lemon acidity, but with texture and that nutty creaminess. I see the logic of not over-chilling this wine to let its texture and subtle creaminess shine through. A 'natural' wine of great clarity and quality.
(2025) The original 'super Tuscans', Tignanello, broke the mould as it contained some Bordeaux varieties as well as local hero Sangiovese, and it was matured in small French oak barriques, just like the top wines of Bordeaux. The 2022 is a blend of 78% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc. It is a pretty, medium-weight vintage, deliciously drinkable now but with a decade plus of cellaring potential surely. The nose is lifted by violet and kirsch over plush and ripe black berries, a fine wreath of cedar and tobacco beneath. Taut on the palate in its youth, there is an ash and liquorice firmness to the tannins, but the mid-palate concentration and supple sweetness of fruit leaves no room for doubt that it is a wine with great potential. Hints of bitter cocoa and tobacco add complexity in the long finish, which has fine acid balance.
(2025) Wow. This is is fabulous. The nose is pure seduction: an unctuous, deep, glossy pool of pure and ripe black berries, underpinned by a bottomless depth of cedary pencil-shavings, cocoa, clove spice and yet a meaty, savoury edge too. The palate has similar gloss and velvet richness, but it is a profound wine, so plush and intense, softly caressing in the elegance and ripeness of the fruit. Everything is polished to precision, including the super-fine tannins and ripe cherry acidity. Its spicy, chocolaty finish is near endless. A majestic effort this. It will be released in September 2025, and afterwards will be available from Mann Fine Wine, Bon Coeur Fine Wines, Farr Vintners, Honest grapes and Noble Rot Fine Wine Ltd.
(2024) 50% Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards in the Cotes de Blancs and 50% Pinot Noir from Grand Crus in the Montagne de Reims, always aged a minimum of four years. Straw/pale lemon in colour with miniscule bubbles, toasted, buttery pastry notes also have a mineral intensity, an intense zestiness at its core. The palate is full and graceful, the required zip and freshness is there, but underpinning is a generous, weight and texture so this is creamy, fruity, but decisive.
(2024) In its very fancy bottle and with a super pale colour this is a Provence ringer, but actually from the Languedoc. It's one of the most vibrant, intense wines of its style in this year's round-up, peach, pink fig and strawberry among the brightly fruity aromas. The palate follows through, the keen stripe of rhubarb-like acidity flashing through the ripe red fruits. Crisp, fruit-filled, distinctive and impressive.
(2024) From a family owned and run producer, a Champagne with a delightfuly deep cerise colour coming from the addition of Pinot Noir made as a red base wine into the blend. Gorgeous rose-hip and cherry finesse and elegance runs through the nose and palate, a little toast, and dazzling raspberry-sharp acidity to balance. This is Brut, with around 9g/l dosage, but it finishes gastronomic and savoury. A bargain at Mann Fine Wine's price - other retailers sell for £10 per bottle more.
(2024) Made by Château Clinet of Pomerol, but from Right Bank vineyards outside of the appellation, this Merlot-based wine is another I've enjoyed in various vintages. There's a smooth and plush plum and chocolate character on the nose, dark and touched by espresso. It's all about swirling darkness really, but there are delightful little perfumed violet hints. On the palate the creamy, suave depth of the black fruit cashes the cheque promised by the nose: crushed black berries, a meaty and charry edge but well into the background, and a lovely support from the quite richly-framed tannins and acidity. Well-priced. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) Bricco delle Viole is a high vineyard peaking at 450 metres. It is planted on distinctive chalk soils with iron oxide and manganese. Giuseppe Vajra believes that gives a more restrained personality, from very old vines, some dating back almost 100 years. There's such a polished, luxurious quality to this wine, that begins aromatically with mocha coffee underpinning ripe, dark vine fruits. I tasted this wine twice, not decanted, but the bottle sealed over a couple of days, in which time highlights of violet and a hint of patchouli fragrance emerged, but the calm and collected elegance remained. In the mouth the tannin and acid profile is tight and firm rather than aggressive, spices join the black fruit flavours, with nuances of Seville orange and liquorice adding to the complexity. At time of review most stockists offer this wine only by the case.
(2023) The 2020 vintage of this wine from the Adriatic coast was a Wine of the Week, and the 2021 a Wine of the Month. So what of this new 2022 vintage? The recipe is the same: from a vineyard in the Apennine mountains that's now almost 60 years old, fermented with wild yeast and minimal sulphur, and spending enriching time on the lees. The 2022 is another crystalline white wine with beautifully honeyed overtones. Stefano Zoli crafts these wines with impeccable attention to detail. A tinge of bronze to the colour, but shimmering with green apple acidity that is married to a peachy mid-palate and a wreathing, mineral smokiness. Another beautiful iteration of this wine.
(2022) I loved the 2020 vintage of this wine and made it my Wine of the Week, but this 2021 ramps up the zing and intensity to a remarkable new level. From the Adriatic coast and vineyards in the foothills of the Apennine mountains, cool conditions and a 55-year-old vineyard combine to make a wine of tremendous natural concentration. The theoretical cross of a peach, lime and mandarin orange, it bursts across the palate with such verve, with a pink grapefruit tang of zesty acidity flowing through the finish. Fabulous stuff.
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