(2026) From 45-year-old vines in an estate founded in the 1960s, there are 35 hectares of vines planted on Schist soils. Made in stainless steel and weighing in with just 11% abv, this has a soft, gently leafy blueberry fruitiness, dry with cranberry notes. In the mouth that cool, well-delineated fruit and acid composition is balanced, though for me the wine does lack a certain fruit density - I don't want a blockbuster Gamay, and this is elegant, restrained but perhaps a little lacking in the final analysis.
(2026) It is relatively rare to see a Gran Reserva Rioja listed these days, the GR rules stipulating a long minimum period of barrel ageing, which for the past few decades has been somewhat out of favour in the region. This Gran Reserva spent around two and a half years in oak, plus three more in bottle before release, although the barrels were all French, rather than the often more obvious American oak. It is 95% Tempranillo plus Graciano. It is aromatic, but more about cedar and sweet damp earth, a hint of chocolate, than overt fruitiness. In the mouth it continues on that cedary path, though there is a solid core of plum and blackcurrant, that is really quite plush on the mid-palate, before juicy acidity, firm tannins and the graphite and spice character reasserts in the long finish. Top tip: decant this for at least one hour and the fruit will emerge more. One for something off the grill or barbie. Watch the video for more information.
(2026) From a partnership between British born Max Franks and Donny Sebastiani, whose family name is synonymous with Sonoma wine. There's a very attractive spice, truffle and sous-bois element here that does not dominate the ripe red and black fruits. On the palate the sweet ripeness surprises, a creamy overflow of sweet cherry and plum, some orange juicy redcurrant and a lightly roasted earthiness. Tannins are supple, acidity is moderate, but it does balance in a rich, full, enjoyable Pinot.
(2026) The lowly 12.5% alcohol is noted in this Sonoma County Chardonnay. If it is oaked, it is discreetly so, with just a hint of mint and honey to buttery and ripe orchard fruit. In the mouth it is well-balanced, a medium texture and fine limey acidity cutting through the more juicy and ripe stone and orchard fruit of the palate. Quite long, just a hint of phenolic grip and texture giving savoury appeal.
(2026) It's a Primitivo from Puglia, and it is appassimento, made from partially dried grapes. In itself that's not too unusual, but this is not only certified organic, it uses an ancient technique called Giro del Picciolo to dry the grapes: rather than harvest them and dry on mats, the stems of each bunch are twisted, cutting off flow of water and nutrients from the vine to the bunch, which over 12 days or so naturally concentrate as up to 40% of water volume is lost. It is also aged six months in American oak, for a smooth, bountiful red that is crammed with cherry and liquorice and as supple, full-bodied and flavourful as you like. Lots of independent stockists have this at £13.50 - £15.00, so use the wine-searcher link below or watch the video for more stockists and information.
(2026) Penon-Hofstatt is one of the higher UGAs with vineyards from 500- to 650-metres, on steel southeast facing slopes with a high diurnal shift between day and night temperatures. Soils are sandy and gravel with dolomite limestone, quartz, mica and clay minerals. After fermentation in stainless steel this is aged on the fine lees in large, oak barrels for nine months. Peach and pear aromas are creamy and ripe, some lemon peel. Deliciously ripe, juicy and mouth-filling, lime skins and lemon peel acidity with a salty mineral edge feeling grippy and structured. This has texture, fruit and intensity. A terrific wine.
(2026) Schiava is historically an over-cropped variety, but now Kurtatsch makes the wine very carefully with lower yields, and only six months in concrete tank with gentle extraction. This wine does not carry a UGA designation at present as grapes do not come from just one location. Harry suggests chilling this lightly. Vines are at 300- to 400-metres, on sandy, loamy soil with limestone and clay. It's such a lovely old vine wine, redolent of cherries, pomegranate and orange, the sweet, creamy ripeness of the palate is juicy, with perfectly pitched and discreet tannins and acidity.
(2026) There's absolutely no denying the class - or the deliciousness - of this vintage of what is surely the World's most famous Rosé. Silky smooth in texture, the charming red berries of the nose flow onto the palate where perfect mineral and sheer, delicate line balance propels a long, dry and harmonious finish.
(2026) Even after all these years I can still come across grape varieties new to me; in this case, Langhe speciality Bianver. The wine, from sandy and clay soils is fermented with wild yeasts and stays on its lees, in steel, for seven months with regular bâtonnage. There's a lot of colour this when poured, a deep yellow heading to gold. The nose is creamy, with perhaps just a hint of nutty oxidation. I am not sure whether that is the style, or a product of this small sample bottle. The palate has plenty of weight and rolling texture, the fruit somewhere between nutty, honeyed character and quite a luscious nectarine ripeness. A fascinating and niche wine of great interest.
(2026) The indigenous but relatively rare variety, Raboso, comes from 50-year-old vineyards planted on sandy clay over volcanic rock. The wine is aged in a Slavonian oak botti (large casks) for 12 months. A deep crimson wine with ruby on the rim, there's a medicinal/herbal character here, a touch of farmyard that could be low-level brettanomyces, but classic Burgundy lovers will find it a rather attractive component. In the mouth the fruit is sweet, dark and ripe, the earthy tones of the wine give a dry, savoury finish with hints of dried herbs and bitter almond.
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