Well, this is undeniably delicious and fine. The 12th release from Dermot Sugrue's own operation, farming 20-year-old vines in Sussex, it is 60% Pinot and 40% Chardonnay, and 40% of the base wine was fermented in French oak barriques and older, 600-litre demi-muids. It then had 32 months on the lees. Pale lemon/straw with copious minuscule bubbles, aromas are captivating, spanning a hint of toast and Brazil nut, fresh ceps, and an airy, light but nutty russet apple. There is an ozone and mineral salts freshness too. In the mouth, the wine burst with ripe, exuberant and sweet fruit. It's not sugar, this bottled with just 6g/l dosage, but it is fruity to its core, without sacrificing elegance or vivacious punch. So much dazzling, saline acidity and that bready, nutty hint of richer depth beneath the rippling surface. Fabulous.
Irreverent is the word I guess, for this new wine from Dermot and Ana Sugrue, its punk-inspired label bearing its full title: 'Never Mind The Gamay; Here's The Pinot Meunier'. So the nod to the wines of Beaujolais and the Loire is obvious, signalling a wine that will major on juicy fruit expression, though ageing in a combination of various sizes of American and French oak barrels adds a level of seriousness and complexity.
In fact the wine does contain a touch of Gamay, but 97% is Pinot Meunier from a vineyard planted by Sugrue and hop- and grape-grower Chris Nichols, that would normally be destined for sparkling wine. But 2025's conditions led to ripeness described by Dermot Sugrue as a 'once-in-a-generation unicorn' vintage. There is a little earthiness and roasted chestnut on the nose, a touch of leafiness, and plenty of spicy red berry fruit. In the mouth the exuberance of the fruit bursts through: juicy cherry flesh and drier, earthy redcurrant, but modest tannins, a coffeeish oak background and lip-smacking acidity give it immense, easy drinkability. Only 3,000 bottles were produced and half of those have already gone, so if you are a Cru Beaujolais fan who fancies something quirky, different and delicious, get on board.