(2026) It is relatively rare to see a Gran Reserva Rioja listed these days, the GR rules stipulating a long minimum period of barrel ageing, which for the past few decades has been somewhat out of favour in the region. This Gran Reserva spent around two and a half years in oak, plus three more in bottle before release, although the barrels were all French, rather than the often more obvious American oak. It is 95% Tempranillo plus Graciano. It is aromatic, but more about cedar and sweet damp earth, a hint of chocolate, than overt fruitiness. In the mouth it continues on that cedary path, though there is a solid core of plum and blackcurrant, that is really quite plush on the mid-palate, before juicy acidity, firm tannins and the graphite and spice character reasserts in the long finish. Top tip: decant this for at least one hour and the fruit will emerge more. One for something off the grill or barbie. Watch the video for more information.
(2026) The 2025 edition of this pink Rioja blends 80% Garnacha and 20% Viura from vineyards at 550 to 770 metres altitude. There's a confectionery note to this peachy-pink, pale wine. In the mouth there is sweetness and a creamy texture, a modest total acidity of 5.85g/l meaning it has freshness and bite, but is in the easier drinking, fruity style.
(2026) A Rioja from selected vineyards where 90% Tempranillo is joined by Garnacha and Graciano, it is a modern style, not dominated by oak, despite 20 months in American and French barrels. It was fermented with wild yeasts, which has perhaps enhanced the savoury nature of the aromas that melt into crunchy red and black fruits. The oak manifests more as cedar than vanilla, and the palate is medium-bodied, with a bittersweet endive bite to the tannins and acidity. Pomal suggest this food wine will cellar well for a decade. Watch the video for more information.
(2025) A new wine from the Familia Torres, from a vineyard now certified as a Viñedo Singular, the highest grade in a relatively recent classification of Rioja’s vineyards. It sits on limestone terraces and is composed of bush-trained Tempranillo vines with an average age of 25 years. This Crianza spent a year in American and French oak barrels, but less than 10% of those were new. The nose is spicy with supple black fruits to the fore in the plum and blackcurrant spectrum. It is quite an elegant aromatic, subtle pencil-shaving notes mesh with the fruit. On the palate it is fresh and sappy, certainly a contemporary take on Rioja with crisp tannins and pert acidity giving agility rather than anything too sumptuously rich.
(2025) A rainy winter and a strong spring frost in Rioja was followed by a moderate summer that favoured ripening. This is a blend of 80% Garnacha and 20% Viura from vineyards at 500 to 770 metres altitude. It had just three hours of skin contact yet the colour is a nicely bold pink. On the nose little potpourri scents, floral, with light raspberry fruit. In the mouth it is dry and fruit-forward, but there is acid and a hint of roughening tannin in the background to give gastronomic appeal.
(2025) It's a Rioja with a difference, from the easterly Rioja Oriental region where Tempranillo is not necessarily king. This 100% Grenache wine comes from vineyards at an altitude of 600 metres and was fermented in concrete at very low temperatures to preserve aromatics. The wine is then aged for 12 months in second and third-use French oak barrels. When Grenache is made in this more subtle style rather than full-on, jammy ripeness, some compare it to Pinot Noir, and this example might qualify. It has a truffle and roasted spice component, and a very elegant red apple and small berry fruit character with some floral highlights. In the mouth the oak adds a touch of mocha to underpin the fresh and graceful red fruits, lovely acid and pert tannina balance without ever overpowering. Very stylish. Watch the video for more information.
(2024) This top cuvée from Ukan in Rioja Alavesa come from three old, bush vine Tempranillo vineyards on clay-limestone soil. Fermented with native yeasts in oak vats, with 30% of whole clusters, the wine is then aged in French oak barrels for 15 months. It's a sumptuous Rioja this, with huge natural concentration, the deep mulberry fruit glossed with a violet perfume and sheen of oak. Tannins are ripe and rippling, and the acidity balances perfectly. Hedonistic and extremely polished stuff.
(2024) From a small parcel of vines that range in age from 40 to 90 years, sited in Rioja Alavesa. All are dry-farmed bush vines planted on limestone and clay. It spends 10 months in French oak. In a heavyweight bottle, this deeply-coloured wine has notes of vanilla and clove over ripe blackcurrant and damson plum. Some cedar and tobacco adds finesse. In the mouth the black fruit is dense and chocolaty. Tannins are ripe and creamy but add a definite grip, the oak tannins adding charry darkness, and the black cherry acidity well-balanced. It's a serious and ambitious style this, which would have good cellaring potential. Not in the UK at time of writing.
(2024) Ramón Bilbao's pink Rioja is a blend of 80% Garnacha and 20% Viura, coming from specially selected vineyards planted at between 550 and 770 metres altitude. Medium pale with a peachy hue, lots of confectionery and estery notes, hints of banana, orange and exotic fruit. In the mouth the wine is dry, quite pithy lemon fruit and acidity dominate at first, though it has a clean watermelon lightness and sour plum freshness. Quite fruity, but delicate.
(2024) A rosé from Rioja Alavesa, 100% Tempranillo, wirh a relatively deep colour. There's a jammy cherry ripeness to this, plenty of fruit sweetness moving into strawberry. Quite weighty in texture, but balance is good with sufficient acidity to offset the sweet fruit that could otherwise verge on the slightly cloying. No UK retail stockists at time of review.
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