Stockist/Retailer: grandvinwinemerchants.co.uk

(2026) The dry white wine from Suduiraut comes from 50- 60-year-old vines and is for me the best vintage yet of this wine. A blend of 56% Semillon and 44% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented and aged in oak, around 12% of which was new, it is an exuberant and ripe wine, yet one with steel at its core. There are grace notes of fennel and Spring flowers over orange and lime fruit on the nose, a subtle creaminess too. In the mouth this has tang and a grapefruit burst of zest and citrus, running into a finish that is long and dry, a powdery, chalky mineral undertow at its core. This will not hit the market until 2027 I believe, but tasting so good, so young, it should drink well from release and for several years after. En Primeur from the listed stockists at time of review.

(2019) From a legendary vintage, this second-growth Margaux is absolutely exemplary classic Bordeaux: only 12.5% alcohol and a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Merlot, at 33 years old the colour is surprisingly dense and ruby at the core, the broad rim only just fading to pink/amber. Heavenly, pure classic nose of pencil shavings and truffle, a little dried blood note and plenty of black, small berry fruits. There is perfume to spare here, from the gamey to the floral. Decanted for half an hour or so, it is clearly a wine just edging towards the downslope, the tannins a little dry, a bit of brick dust character, but is gives such pleasure and is such a terrific wine. Balancing meatiness, elegance, firmness and yielding softness so well, it has sweet fruit on the mid-palate but does dry just slightly towards the long finish, suggesting it should be drunk up soon to enjoy this gorgeous wine at its best.

(2019) Arlaux is a Champagne grower, the family having farmed only Premier Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims since 1852. The Grande Cuvée spends a full three years on the lees (this bottle disgorged 3rd July 2017 according to the label), and is a blend of the three Champagne grapes. It is immediately appealing, the toast and depth of nutty autolysis melting into a deep orange fruitiness, a little spice and the zest of lemon completing a very alluring picture. The palate does not disappoint, both ripe and relatively full-bodied, creamy and toasty depths of flavour shot through with fine salt and lime freshness of acidity. Long and very beautifully balanced, this is my first experience of Alaux, and most impressive it is too.